INTRODUCTION:

It is human nature to desire beauty (1). Skin is the one of the largest organ of body. It serves as a major protective organ for other body parts. Skin functions as a protective wrapper, keeping everything beneath it and keep safe from daily threats such as the harsh effects of sun, wind and pollution germ filled grime (2,3). The skin supports its own ecosystem of microorganism, including yeast and bacteria, which cannot be removes by any amount of cleaning. Skin is also a sensory organ, which indicates the health of individual. It is consists of material such as amino acid, lipid and carbohydrate etc.

So that a balanced nutrition is required for skin to keep it glossy, clean and clear and healthy (4,5) Cosmetics are products applied to the body for the purpose of beautifying, cleansing or improving appearance and enhancing attractive features. (6,7) As such, the use of cosmetics and personal care products can be traced back to ancient times where ingredients such as milk, honey, lemon juice, clay, mud and even arsenic have been used in the name of beauty. In the present days, the cosmetics and personal care industry is a vital industry that contributes significantly to the world gross domestic product (GDP). Figure 1 shows the snapshot of the global market size for the cosmetics, toiletry and fragrance industry for 2010 (1) The word cosmetic was derived from the Greek word “kosmtikos” meaning having the power, arrange, skill in decorating 1. The origin of cosmetics forms a continuous narrative throughout the history of man as they developed. (8-16). There are three major trading blocks for cosmetics namely the USA, Europe and Japan. The Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act (1,17) defines cosmetics as ‘articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced into, or otherwise applied to human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance without affecting structure or function’. (18) The cosmetic does not come under the preview of drug license, (19) European Directive 93/35/EEC [D, D2] defines cosmetic products as ‘any substance or preparation intended to be placed in contact with the various external parts of the human body (epidermis, hair system, nails, lips and external genital organs) or with teeth and the mucous membranes of the oral cavity with a view exclusively or mainly to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance and/or correcting body odours and/or protecting them or keeping them in good conditions’. Japanese pharmaceutical affairs law defines cosmetics as ‘any article intended to be used by means of rubbing, sprinkling or by similar application to the human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness and altering appearance of the human body, and for keeping the skin and hair healthy, provided that the action of the article on the human body is mild’ (1,20). Cosmetics consist of a range of products such as tooth paste, shampoo, conditioners, mascara, after shave lotion, styling gel, creams, lotions, powders, perfumes, lipsticks, fingernail and toenail polish, eye and facial make-ups, hair wavers, hair dyes, hair sprays, deodorants and antiperspirants. The word ‘make up’ is defined as a cosmetic which refers primarily to colored products intended to alter the user’s appearance. Schneider et al defined skincare products or cosmetics as mixtures of synthetic or natural chemical compounds used to improve the appearance or smell of the body. They are articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or sprayed on, introduced into, or otherwise applied to the human body or any part thereof for promoting attractiveness, cleansing, beautifying or altering the appearance without affecting the body structure or functions (21) The Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act have quoted the definition of cosmetic preparations, as “Articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced into, or otherwise applied to the human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance.” The line of products which are included in cosmetics are chiefly shampoos, hair color, nail lacquers, lipsticks, preparations meant to be applied on eye and face to beautify them, toothpastes and deodorants. (22) These definitions are quite similar in that all of them classify cosmetics as products that enhance appearance but do not have any therapeutic benefits as opposed to drugs. Thus, a new term, cosmeceuticals, has been coined. (D) The term Cosmeceuticals was first used by Raymond Reed founding member of U.S Society of Cosmetics Chemist in 1961. (N) He actually used the word to brief the active and science based cosmetics. The above term was further used by Dr Albert Kligman in the year 1984 to refer the substances that have both cosmetic and therapeutic benefits (23). Cosmeceuticals are cosmetic-pharmaceutical hybrids intended to enhance health and beauty through ingredients that influence the skin's biological texture and function (24). Kilgman may be described as the father of Cosmeceuticals, a term he popularized, but they first appeared in the world market in 1996 (10,25,26).Cosmeceuticals can be naturally derived or chemically synthesized. Ideally, cosmeceuticals ingredients must be safe, efficacious, novel, stable, inexpensive to manufacture and can be metabolized within skin. Information on cosmeceuticals active ingredients is abundant in literature. (1)

Objectives:

· To Prepare a Multipurpose cosmetic.

· To Study the role of particular ingredient.

· To assess the efficacy and tolerability of the particular formulation to improve the particular organ.

· To nourish and beautify the organ.

Herbal cosmetics:

The history of the herbal cosmetics industry includes very dark chapters in European and Western countries from about six centuries back. Mixtures and pastes were then used to whiten the face, a practice which remained popular till over four hundred years later. The early mixtures that were used in Europe for this purpose were so potent that they often led to paralysis, strokes or death. In that era, the history of herbal cosmetics in the 1940s shows how the fashion or trend with respect to lipstick colours was changed annually, getting darker and closer to red every passing year (10) World is endowed with a rich wealth of medicinal plants. The variety and sheer number of plants with therapeutic properties is quite astonishing. It is esteemed that around 70, 000 plant species from lichens to towering trees, have been used at one or more times for medicinal purposes. Medicinal plants provide the starting material for the isolation or synthesis of conventional drugs. The World Health Organization (WHO) defines a medicinal plant as any plant, which, in one or more of its organs, contains substances that can be used for therapeutic purposes, or which are precursors for chemo pharmaceutical semi synthesis. (27) The World Health Organization (WHO) estimated that 80% of populations of developing countries rely on traditional medicines, mostly plant drugs, for their primary health care needs. Besides health care, herbs are also used for beautification of the body and for preparation of various cosmetics. (28) The demand of herbal medicines is increasing rapidly due to their skin friendliness and lack of side effects and the rise in the beauty and fashion industry. The best thing of the herbal cosmetics is that it is purely made by the herbs and shrubs and thus is side-effects free (10) Cosmetics made up of herbal extracts for antimarks, fairness, cleansing and hair-care are very popular for their reliability. (26) The natural content in the herbs does not have any side effects on the human body; instead provide the body with nutrients and other useful minerals (29) Medicinal plants have curative properties due to presence of various complex chemical substances of different composition, which are found as plant metabolites especially secondary compounds in one or more parts of these plants. Plant metabolites include: primary metabolites and secondary metabolites. In India, the use of different parts of several medicinal plants to cure specific ailments has been in vogue form ancient times. The indigenous system of medicine namely Ayurveda, Siddha and Unani have been in existence in India. Our knowledge of medicinal plants has mostly been inherited traditional. (27) Herbal cosmetics are the products in which herbs are used in crude or extract form. Herbal Cosmetics, referred as Products, are formulated, using various permissible cosmetic ingredients to form the base in which one or more herbal ingredients are used to provide defined cosmetic benefits only, shall be called as “Herbal Cosmetics”. (8,10,13,29,30) Herbs have variety of function such as food flavourings, cosmetics and medicine in the forms of tea, tablet, capsule, tincture, cream, syrup and liquid. The worldwide herbal industry is currently evaluated to be more than US$10 billion dollars and expanding at a rate of three to four percent annually for reasons of increased consumption in processed foods and demand for ethnic foods, natural fragrances, and innovation in beverage products. Herbs include crude plant material, such as leaves, flowers, fruit, seeds, stems, wood, bark, roots, rhizomes or other plant parts, which may be entire, fragmented or powdered. Herbal materials include, in addition to herbs, fresh juices, gums, fixed oils, essential oils, resins and dry powders of herbs. (10) These herbal ingredients or material are often subjected to roasting, stirring, steaming, etc with alcoholic or other solvents. The finished herbal formulations consist of extracts, tinctures, powders, juices, oils of the plant material having potential benefits. They are often subjected to various chemical processes in order to purify or extract out the desired material or constituents which includes any biological, physical processes, extraction Method, Purification Methods, Concentration or Fractionalization Finished Herbal Formulation contains more than one or equivalent herbs which evaluate the herbal preparations. (10,31) The biggest markets, regarding of manufacturing and consumption are in Europe, followed by Asia. (32)

History of Cosmetic:

Somewhere around 4000 BC, the first use of cosmetic substances were reported (7,22,33). The origin of cosmetics forms a continuous narrative throughout the history of man as they developed. The man in prehistoric times 3000BC used colours for decoration to attract the animals that he wished to hunt and also the man survived attack from the enemy by colouring his skin and adorned his body for protection to provoke fear in an enemy (whether man or animal). The origin of cosmetics were associated with hunting, fighting, religion and superstition and later associated with medicine.^{8,10,12,13,14, 19,31,34}. History of Skin Care--Though cosmetics have likely existed for even longer, the first evidence of cosmetics stems from Ancient Egypt, approximately 6, 000 years ago.^21,35 They used cosmetics for a variety of reasons, the first being for mummification, burial traditions, and honouring their Gods and Goddesses. They also used cosmetics to protect them from the elements — mainly sun rays and insects. Egyptians - like using aloe, myrrh, and frankincense. These products, particularly frankincense, were believed to possess anti-inflammatory properties and were used as anti-wrinkle creams by Ancient Egyptians. Makeup was created using a variety of products including metal ore, copper, water, oil, animal fat, and precious stones. While Ancient Greeks and Romans used the ideas of the Ancient Egyptians, they took their skincare and beauty rituals one step further. Many Greeks and Romans would spend an entire day at the “spa” to focus on their skin. Women commonly used white lead, crocodile dung, and chalk in order to lighten the appearance of their skin. They also created face masks with starch and eggs, which were believed to tighten the skin, reduce wrinkles, and keep the face looking as youthful as possible. This was even more common in China, particularly under the Shang Dynasty (in 1760 BC). A powdered face with smooth skin was extremely popular and white powders were used to achieve the whitest complexion possible. Taking it another step further, many also used gels and lotions to permanently bleach their skin. As skincare moved to Europe and the Middle East, new ingredients and methods were invented and introduced. The first cold cream was developed using rose oil and water, and melting beeswax into it. They used the mineral alum to treat scabs and used olive lead to fight acne. They combined vinegar and lead to make a whitening foundation and used it to get rid of freckles and whiten their skin. During the Elizabethan Era, many Europeans used this whitening foundation.(35,36) The use of heena to decorate the hands was a also a tradition in the past. (37) The use of cosmetic was time back in Pre-Christian Hellenistic period from where the historians had mentioned the use of herbal’s in cosmetics and aromatic products. Queen Cleopatra a symbol for the last word in cosmetics and beautification used aloe vera gel as a skin care product. The Pliny the Elder (A.D. 23-79) has written an interesting section on perfumes and aromatic materials in his Encyclopedia “Natural History”. The Cornelius Celsus a Roman physician (B.C. 7 - A.D. 53.) discussed about the conditions of the skin cleanser during the 16th century. The Queen Elizabeth encouraged women to cultivate gardens and helped them in preparation of powders, sachets and scented washes (a floral essence with other aromatic substance). (38) At the time, it wasn’t popular to wash their faces and/or bodies, so typically, they piled on layer after layer of the whitening foundation to achieve a look as pale as possible. Despite the many social strides made in the late 1800’s and early 1900’s, dark skin was still seen as undesirable. Skin whitening was as popular as ever and products were made nearly exclusively for light skinned women. By the 1920’s, a shift in beauty ideals caused slightly tanned skin to be seen as desirable. Cosmetics, in turn, followed this trend. Tinted face powders and lotions that emulated a tan were introduced. ideals of beauty. For example, these populations used olive oil, honey and milk to keep their skin wrinkle free, as well as the pigment from clay to create lip and cheek tints to recreate a healthy glow. Another prime example is their use of a charcoal-like substance called Kohl to create thick black lines around their eyes to enhance their natural shape, believing that by following this technique, it would also protect their eyes from the glare of the sun. (35,36) Cracked lips, besides being painful, spoil the beauty of the face. The rind of Bel fruit (Aegle marmelos Corr.) is powdered and mixed in woman’s milk and the paste thus prepared is applied to the cracked lips. The cracking will stop and the cracks will heal within 10 days the Superfluous hair was considered to be a mark of disgrace and a large number of depilatory agents were recommended to get rid of it. Dried fruits of Aavalakatti (Emblica officinalis Gaertn.) and dried fruits of Pimpali (Piper longum Linn.) were used. The mixture was soaked in the milky latex of Nivadunga (Cactus: Euphorbia nivulia Ham.) This compound was applied to the desired place, the hairs from that area were found to fall off”. The use of kajal has a long history in Hindu Culture. Various beauty rituals in the present-day rituals such as coloring of hair, depilation and exfoliation find their roots in ancient Egyptian culture. In earlier days, the Romans, Greeks and Egyptians used various cosmetics which contain white Lead and Mercury. Oils with essence and ointments were used to clean and soften the skin and mask body odor while dyes and natural paints were used to color the face, mainly for ceremonial and religious occasions. There was a common ancient belief that eye makeup could remove evil spirits and improve sight.(21)

Fig 1: Ancient methods used in Beautification

Classification of Herbal cosmetics: (39)

Fig 3: A Surveillance on use of Herbal Cosmetics

A Surveillance on use of Herbal Cosmetics: (40)

Advantages of Herbal cosmetics:

Cosmetics are the modern trend in the field of beauty and fashion. These agents are gaining popularity as nowadays most women prefer natural products over chemicals for their personal care to enhance their beauty as these products supply the body with nutrients and enhance health and provide satisfaction as these are free from synthetic chemicals and have relatively less side-effects compared to the synthetic cosmetics. Following are some of the advantages of using natural cosmetics which make them a better choice over the synthetic ones:

· Natural products

· Medicinal plants have a renewable source, which is our only hope for sustainable supplies of cheaper medicines forthe world growing population.

· Efgiceiecy and Safe to use

· Compatible with all types of skin

· Fits your budget

· Wide choice of selection

· Not tested on animals

· No side effects

· Herbal medicine have long history of use and better patient tolerance as well as acceptance.

· Availability of medicinal plants is not a problem especially in developing countries like India having rich agro- climatic, cultural and ethnic biodiversity.

· The cultivation and processing of medicinal herbs and herbal products is environmental friendly.

· Prolong and apparently uneventful use of herbal medicines may offer testimony of their safety and effriend

· Throughout the world, herbal medicine has provided many of the most potent medicines to the vast arsenal of drugs available to modern medical science, both in crude form and as a pure chemical upon which modern medicines are structured (10, 29)

Standard examples of Indian herbal Extracts:

Herbs play a significant role, especially in modem imes, when the damaging effects of food processing and over- medication have assumed alarming proportions. They are now being increasingly cosmetics, foods and teas, as well as alternative medicines. (46) The growing interest in herbs is a part of the movement towards change in life- styles. This movement is based on the belief that the plants have a vast potential for their use as a curative medicine.

Amla (Embilica officinalis):

Amla is the name given to the fruit of a small leafy tree (EmblicaOfficinalis), which grows throughout India and bears an edible fruit. This fruit is highly prized both for its high vitamin C content and for the precious oil, which is extracted from its seeds and pulp and used as a treatment for hair and scalp problems. (47) T is used in eye syndromes, hair loss, and children ailments etc.

Brahmi (Bacopa monnieri):

It can be used as a face pack to improve facial complexion. It is used as a hair application to make hair shiny and their beautification. It also removes dandruff and lice in hair. (48) It can also be used to clean jewellery and washing woolen clothes. It is used in Ayurvedic preparations and Herbal Shampoos.

Shikaka (Acasia cancina):

It is a small shrub-like tree, which grows in the warm, dry plain of central India. For centuries the people who have had accessto this tree have used its pod like fruit to clean their hair. It is considered a superior cleanser for "lustrous long hair" and has been reported as "promoting hair growth and preventing dandruff. (49) It also helps in removing dandruff and lice and very effective in removing oil and dirt from hair.

Neem (Azadirachata indica):

"SarvaRogaNivarini - the curer of all ailments" Neem's role as a wonder drug is stressed as far back as 4500 years ago. Some of its health restoring benefits Effective in skin infection, rashes and pimples, Immunity booster, Anti obesity, Blood purifier for beautiful and healthy skin, Anti diabetic, Anti viral, Dispels intestinal worms and parasites, Malaria, Piles, Hair disorder and Oral disorders. (50)

Reetha Powder (Soap nut):

It is used in India as a natural hair and body cleanser. It offers an alternative way of naturally cleansing hair, face and body without Sodium LaurethSulfate or Sodium Lauryl Sulfate. Soap nut powder also makes a great face and body exfoliant. (51)

Tulsi (Ocimum sanctum):

Holy basil, called Tulsi in India, is ubiquitous in Hindu tradition. Perhaps its role as a healing herb was instrumental in its "sacred" implication.

Ghritkumar (Aloe vera):

It is a most ingenious mixture of an antibiotic, an astringent coagulating agent, a pain inhibitor and a growth stimulator (also called a "wound hormone"), whose function is to accelerate the healing of injured surfaces. (52) It is used for pain relief and healing of 'hemorrhoids, applied externally and internally it?s also used for sunburn, scratch and a cleansing purge for the body or skin. It is an aid to growing new tissue and alleviating the advance of skin cancer caused by the sun.

Multani Mitts (Fullers Earth):

It is Mother Nature's own baby powder. Clay was one of the earliest substances to be used as a beauty mask to draw oils from the skin, natural moisturizers for hairs, teeth, gums and hair, To remove pimple marks, treating sunburn, helps unclog pores, to cleanse the skin of flakes and dirt. (53)

Indigo:

Being blue in color it was used as a bindi / tika (dot) on the forehead and chin.

Madder Root:

Being available in color that suits the lips this was utilized to beautify lips and cheeks.

Hibiscus rosa cynensis (Jaswand or Shoe Flower):

With dark color of its own this was used to blacken and maintain hair color. (54)

Raktachandan:

This was another natural component available in attractive color and hence was used as fresh, red bindi / tika (dot) on the forehead.

Aloe Vera:

With the traits that prevent aging and regenerate growth of cells this was used as an essential component to keep oneself fit, protect the skin, prevents and heals skin irritations. (55)

Chandan and Vertiver (Usheer):

It was used as scrubs and face packs that were applied on face and whole body to remove dead cells, regenerate growth of new cells and give a young look.

Haldi (Turmeric):

It was used as a face pack along with usheer (vertiver) and also as an antiseptic. (56)

Typical standard examples of marketed preparations:

1. ST. Ives Radiant Skin Pink Lemon and Mandarin Orange Face Scrub

2. Aroma Magic Mineral Glow Scrub.

3. Plum Green Tea Gentle Revival Face Scrub.

4. Biotique Bio Papaya Revitalizing Tan Removal Scrub.

5. Neutrogena Deep Clean Daily Scrub.

6. Everyuth Naturals Pure and Light Tan Removal Scrub.

7. VLCC Indian Berberry Face Scrub.

8. Himalaya Herbals Gentle Exfoliating Walnut Scrub.

9. Dot and Key Illuminating Glow Detan Clay Polish

10. Simple Daily Skin Detox Clear Pore Facial Scrub

11. MCaffeine Naked and Raw Coffee Face Scrub

12. Mamaearth Ubtan Scrub For Face With Turmeric and Walnut For Tan Removal

13. Khadi Natural Rose and Apricot Walnut Facial Scrub

14. Lakme Blush and Glow Green Apple Apricot Gel Scrub

15. Clean and Clear Blackhead Clearing Daily Scrub (57)

Formulation:

The formulation is prepared by taking required ingredients in given quantity and then by mixing with the given gelling agent. The other method is by doing the extaraction using various methods.

Evaluation parameters:

1.Phyiscal Appearance:

Physical appearance of formulation was observed visually. In this test colour, odour, nature, and consistency were observed.

2. Homogeneity:

Homogeneity of the formulation was inspected visually.

3. pH:

pH of prepared formulation was determined by using digital pH meter.

4. Extrudability:

Extrudability was determined by the time required by sample to completely extrude from the container, i.e. Sample amount/ time required

5. Determination of spreadability:

Small amount of the sample is to be placed on the glass slide and another glass slide was placed on the gel. A wooden weight of 20gm was placed on it. The time required for the scrub to spread and the area was measured. amount and the area of scrub on the glass slide represent the efficiency of spreadability, i.e.

Spreadability= M ×L/T

S=Spreadability

m=Weight placed on the slide

l=Length of the glass slide

t=Time taken in seconds

6. Irritability:

Little quantity of the sample was applied on the surface of skin and kept for few minutes.

7. Washability:

Little quantity of formulation was applied over the skin and washed with water.

8. Grittiness: Grittiness was checked manually.

9. Foamability:

Small amount of sample was shaken with water in a measuring cylinder and the foam was measured.

10. Viscosity:

Brookfield viscometer was used to measure the viscosity of formulation.

11. Stability study:

The formulation was stored at different temperature conditions for a period of 56 days and evaluated for parameters like colour, odour, pH, and consistency.

12.Consistency:

It was checked by visual observation.

13.Patch test:

Patch testing is well established method for diagnosing the hypersensitivity as well as to determine the potential of a specific substance to cause the allergic action on patient skin. In patch test a small area of skin is exposed to those chemicals in dilute form whose specific effect on skin is to be studied. In patch test reaction of formulation on skin is observed in 2-3 days. Polyherbal scrub being cosmetic product we have conducted the patch test for the same on different type of skins like fair, dark, medium dark, medium fair and medium (58-69).

CONCLUSION:

It can be concluded that in this 21^st century the proverb beauty with brain is been proven correct. Also herbal are becoming more and more important in day todays life due to its various effects proving benefit to the young generation. Also its non toxic and less side effect producing quality is also important.

CONFLICT OF INTREST:

None.

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Received on 30.08.2021 Accepted on 29.10.2021

Research J. Topical and Cosmetic Sci. 2022; 13(1):27-34.

DOI: 10.52711/2321-5844.2022.00005